Thursday, July 31, 2008

He Mele No Lilo

My first day at work-as if yesterday hadn't felt overwhelming enough as it is. I am not proud of my poor Japanese skills (and they must be incredibly poor indeed, since the mantra we've gotten is you'll constantly be hearing "Ooo nihongo o jyosu desu ne!" and I've only heard it from 3 or 4 people) but I think if I had walked in without any I would be panicking even more. 

I just feel as if I am doing everything half-ass backwards, and it doesn't matter that I'm a foreigner, they still look at me like an idiot. The teachers I interacted with today-the vice principal, and largely the two English teachers-were very nice and helpful, but huge mounds of the conversation were in Japanese and flew right over my head. I got the impression I was embarrassing or inconveniencing them constantly... I automatically told the vice principal "Bless You" when she sneezed, but that apparently just embarrasses them. I forgot everyone's names, and stumbled over the simplest pronunciation. Seriously, "なまえ" is not that hard! I had only chicken for lunch, since I can't cook any complicated dishes, and the teachers giggled over my lack of rice. 

So it's been a pretty strange day. JETs who took me out for food this evening said it's completely typical, so maybe survival is an option. Who knows, I might even form a coherent Japanese sentence someday. 

"Kalakaua is his name, a flower that never fades in the sun. It blooms on the summit on the mountain, Mauna Kea. Burning bright at Kilauea, illuminating Wahinekapu."

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

We All Live In A Yellow Submarine

I am here, in humidity-soaked Japan. What an experience the last four days have been. After I've finished reeling from the jetlag (no pun intended) maybe it'll sink in. Or maybe it won't sink in for days yet. I still kinda feel like I'm back in the States, even though in reality I am halfway across the world. 

Internet helps, I think. My predecessor was absolutely wonderful and lent me his modem until the 20th of August, around which time I'll hopefully be well on my way to getting my own. The apartment is quite lovely, as well. It's filled with odd little ends and crannies, and there are a couple of things I'll need before I can fully call it home, but it's very nice. I also visited one of my two schools today and meet my supervisor, principal, and all of the English teachers I'll be working with. Needless to say, it was nerve-wracking, and I'm glad to have it out of the way. 

Not even a week in, and I've checked two "Experience Japan!" items off my list: karoke (never again will I tackle you, Celine Dion) and this evening I went to my first revolving sushi place. It was... pretty interesting. Especially for 126 yen a plate!

Friday, July 25, 2008

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Away From Her


I have about 8 more days in the States. I move out of my house tomorrow (ish), and the nail-biting anticipation and horror of what I am actually about to set into has not yet sunk into my plan-idled head. I have spent the last few weeks so busy planning-planning money, planning transportation, planning packing, planning go away meetings with local friends-I've at times downright forgotten the whole purpose of the planning: that in 192 hours, I will be bound for a country halfway round the world.

It starts to feel a little strange. I hear announcements on the radio about how such-and-such fair, or play, or movie is coming out on such-and-such a date, and my immediate reaction is," Cool I want to see that, what am I doing on.... Oh yeah." I'm emerging onto a whole new social scene. As the Planning For Japan comes to a grinding halt, I am filled with a kind of nervous void, because I have no idea what to expect once actually landed. I have no expectations with which to plan around. So planning, which had become a way to venting my anxiety, has finally at long last failed me.

My planning always involved a touch of paranoia. Everyone on the boards of course says the same: "chill out, just come in with good intentions and be open to new experiences and you'll do fine," but I feel myself wanting to play the indignant teenager-screw you, you can't understand what I'm going through, you were never a first year JET, blah blah. I mean, honestly, my logical brain knows that the road to hell is paved with unrealistic expectations and that "it takes more muscles to frown than smile" is an annoying but necessary mantra, but come on, chill out? I'm moving to a small town in a foreign country with two suitcases, $2,000 (that's 211,640 Y for the folks playing at home), and an apartment that might, hopefully, be clean, though my predecessor said he's applied at least three loads of bleach to it.

But hey, I'm chill. I'm cool. I can fight every natural urge in my nature to form some kind of expectation about what the next year of my life 'll be like. A-okay Skipper.

Thankfully, I did finally get my contract, and it clarified what had been predicted: I am in Mitoyo City, which is to a city what a hybrid is to a car: has the same general appearance but is distinctively different in the gears. Mitoyo was created by combining 7 smaller villages, and it is in one of those villages I am actually situated. I am teaching at two middle schools, and a handful of elementary schools whenever they feel. I have an apartment with a bed, a TV, a fridge, a cooking stove, and a bicycle. I may not have Internet for months, and I may get my underwear stolen if I leave it to dry outside, but overall, the living seems suitable. And functional. I like em functional.

Though it may be selfish to admit, the thought that 2,000 are going through the same turmoil as I am somewhere in the globe is not comforting. But maybe it will be in Chicago, and then Tokyo. I'm looking forward to sharing my frenzy with people other than the posters on the JET board-ya know, that whole Teenager Angle.

Until then, I have packing and shipping plans to preoccupy me, at least for a short time. And the Dark Knight. I will take comfort in the fact that I'm crazy enough to spend a year alone in Japan, but I'm not yet crazy enough to put on a bat suit and fight psychotic clowns.


PS: I am putting together a Powerpoint, which is actually pretty enjoyable. I'm contrasting Wisconsin with Kagawa, my college town with Mitoyo. However, some of the more "nuanced" aspects of American culture I'm having a hard time articulating, especially in my limited Japanese. I mean, how in the world do you explain Ren Faires?
"Um, people dress up in really tight bodices and linen shirts with hose. They talk in accents that are kinda-sorta-accurate. And pretend they're living in the Renissance. Except it's usually not placed in Italy. Usually it's in England and Scotland, which were still kinda stuck in the Middle Ages even in 1423. But they call it a Ren Faire. Except this one has belly dancers. Oh! And giant turkey legs."

Books To Read

In view of my impending free time in Japan, I have started to compile a list of books to read, some for fun, and some for study. So here we go:

  • GRE Examination. This is the book I went with: http://www.borders.com/online/store/TitleDetail?sku=1889057363.
  • Flexible Eugenics: Technologies of the Self in the Age of Genetics. By Karen Sue Taussig. R. Rapp and D. Heath, , 2001
  • Enchantress of Florance by Salman Rushdie.
  • The Great Pigeon Massacre: The Bestiary Biopolitics of Whiteness in a Deindustralizing America. By Hoon Song. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, forthcoming.
  • The Illusion of Consent: Language, Caste, and Colonial Rule in India: Colonial Subjects: Essays in the Practical History of Anthropology, University of Michigan Press, 117-152, 1999. By Gloria Raheja.